Havana Salsa Lessons. Learning About Dance and Embracing Life in Cuba
Updated on February 3rd, 2023
“Learning to dance in Cuba was a life-enhancing experience for me. It is a true example of how we learn more from our failures than our successes. Join me for a tongue in cheek analysis of how taking Havana salsa lessons was the start of a journey through a month which changed my attitude to life.”
Havana, Trinidad & Viñales, Cuba.
Tackling a new skill can be daunting & we’re not all blessed with being brilliant at everything. But failure is a powerful way of learning. For me, taking salsa lessons in Cuba was so much more than just learning to dance. So, here is my tongue in cheek analysis of my journey through a new chapter of my life, while not becoming a Dancing Queen!
If dancing isn’t your thing, then also check out my post on Adult Learning Vacations, for all the inspiration you need.
Havana Salsa Lessons. Learning about dance & embracing life in Cuba
“No Salsa, No boyfriend”
I was in Havana for a month embarking on my new life of adventure. I had tragically lost my husband, Terry almost 2 years before & life had changed forever. After a year of joining friends & family on amazing escapes across the globe, I had decided it was time to take control. To strike out as a woman alone again. I created my Life List & being here was ticking off 2 of my goals, learning Spanish & visiting Cuba. I had enrolled in a language school in Havana & it was my first day in the country.
To learn more about my personal journey, please see Postcards from Tragedy to Hope. You can also check out the evolution of my Life List.
On a walk to explore the old town, Havana Vieja, I was joined by a local woman. One of her first questions was “Do you dance salsa?” I, of course, replied negatively. “In Cuba, no salsa, no boyfriend”.
“At this time, I was not in the market for a boyfriend, for obvious reasons. However, it did give me a glimpse into how important salsa was to this fascinating country.”
By the time I had walked my sandals off around the old town & was on my way back, I had received at least 3 offers to give me Havana salsa lessons. It appears that most Cuban men are teachers & willing to take on new students. I made a decision that during this month I would also tackle another element on my list – Learn to Dance. But dancing prowess does not come without a few bumps in the road.
Everybody has to start somewhere
By day 2, before I had even taken any Spanish lessons, I had made a friend in Bella. Our gorgeous chef, Carida had offered to take us to a salsa club. She didn’t speak any English & we couldn’t understand a word she said, but somehow we arranged a night out. As soon as we arrived, she approached a couple of young boys & basically insisted that they dance with us. Bella & I looked at each other with sheer panic! As true Brits, we needed something to help us with our courage. We were shocked to find that she expected us to embark on this experience without having first had at least 1, 2 or 5 drinks!
But, for the remainder of the song, 4 monumentally uncomfortable people danced salsa (or the guys did anyway). Thankfully the music ended & we were allowed to stop the excruciating experience. Bella & I headed straight to the bar & I think the guys ran for the hills in case they were forced to dance with us again!
Interested in learning a language overseas? Read my guide on Places to Learn Spanish in the Caribbean
“Yes” isn’t always the right answer
Carida then found a guy she knew well who became our teacher for the remainder of the night. He was lovely. Bella was gorgeous & in her early 20’s. For every dance I had, she had at least 2. However, I was happy with that. He had the ability to make learning fun.
Then, as I sat next to Carida, watching the amazing dancers, she kept turning to me & asking me something.
I didn’t understand but didn’t want to disappoint her, so I said “yes”. She shouted at a nearby Cuban guy who came to ask me to dance. I took up the challenge.”
It was uncomfortable & we were both relieved when it came to an end. Then she said something else to me & the process repeated, with a different guy. I think the rum had numbed my senses as it took 3 times before I worked out what the question must have been. Then the answer was “No, muchas gracias!”. I needed a few proper lessons before I said “Yes” again.
Throw out your ego
The next day, Bella & I signed up for official lessons. After 3 hours of an intense 1:1 Spanish class, it was the perfect antidote. A different & refreshing way to exercise my brain. Our teacher was Daniel & we started with a warmup. He would give us exercises & then stand & watch us as we executed them. Many of them involved thrusting our hips at him as we giggled to each other in an awkward way. He observed us with a curious, unimpressed expression on his face.
Let’s get one thing straight before I go any further. Cuban people are born dancing salsa. Their hips do very different things & move in very different ways to us mere mortals.
It’s beautiful to watch & brilliant to imagine that yours are doing the same. They’re not. It’s awkward & you look like you’re made of wood. Get over it & accept!”
Over the course of the next few days, we returned to our hour-long classes. Each time Bella returned to Daniel as a partner while I seemed to have a different man each day. It became a joke that I had danced with every man in Havana. I am convinced that one day I had the cleaner, who I think was also learning (so maybe not all Cubans are built to dance!). I felt dejected but remained determined as I was enjoying it so much.
Want to learn more about Cuba? See my First-Timers Guide to Cuba for everything you need to know
Size doesn’t matter
Adrian & I were a perfectly matched, mismatched couple. He was a passionate, Latino man with snake hips. I was an awkward, reserved English woman made of wood. He was also not much over 5 foot tall & I am almost 6. However, he possessed 3 of the key things I needed: tolerance, a great sense of humour & an empty diary for the remainder of my time in Havana. After so many empty promises I had finally met the Cuban man who would teach me salsa!
It was fun. He happily laughed at me & with me, except when he stared at me in disbelief. This was particularly true when I accidently stepped on my own feet & broke my shoe!”
Anyway, I was getting better by the day but most importantly enjoying myself. At the end of each lesson, we would do the ‘Casino’ where you dance & constantly change partners. Bella & I had a ball & came back buzzing every afternoon. We even increased our lessons to 2 hours every day.
Embrace how uncomfortable you feel
For me, taking dance classes in Cuba was so much more than just learning salsa. Remember what I said before about losing Terry? We were together for 18 years, married for 13. He was my best friend & the only man I had been physically close to in 20 years.
I like my personal space & am very protective of it. I love a hug but to be in my space for a prolonged period is rare. Learning salsa in Cuba meant opening up to the uncomfortable feeling of not just having someone right in my personal space, but that it was a man. It was a monumental shift in my development & it wasn’t lost on me. Salsa felt very intimate to me & initially hugely uncomfortable. But to Adrian & Daniel & all the other guys in Havana that I danced with, it was natural.
If you watch great dancers, you believe they are in love with their partners. They have hot sexual chemistry that is compelling to watch. And then they move on & dance with someone else.
For them it’s a love that lasts for the duration of the song. Then they fall in love with the next person on their dance card.”
I found that actually quite refreshing. It was a great way to reintroduce physical contact into my life. Fleetingly & in context. And then we both moved on to the next student/teacher.
Love Cuba? See 7 Days of Self-Discovery on a Yoga Retreat in Cuba
Don’t get cocky
So, when the time came to leave Havana, I was ready. After 2 weeks learning Spanish & taking Havana Salsa lessons, it was time to strike out on my own & dip my toe back into the water of solo travel. My first stop was Trinidad.
During a walk in the town, I got chatting to a local guy. He spoke to me in English, I answered completely in Spanish. My language progress made me thrilled! And would you believe he was a salsa teacher?! He told me that I could take lessons & keen to advance my progress I put my name down for one. I told him how many lessons I had already taken & that I was not a beginner so he could make sure things were tailored to my needs.
When I arrived, my fellow students turned out to be a couple who had never danced salsa before. I joined in, feeling a little disappointed that I was going back to basics. Then my actual teacher arrived & took me off separately. I was really pleased until it became very evident that he was not Adrian.
He didn’t have much of a sense of humour & was clearly expecting much more of my skills. I came away feeling a bit deflated & realised that dancing with just one partner isn’t necessarily the best way to learn.”
Later that evening I went to the main square where they were dancing. The guy who had arranged my lesson asked me to join him. I did (after a couple of beers for Dutch courage). It wasn’t good. He ended up looking at me confused & said: “What’s happened?” I pointed at my broken sandals (remember them?) hoping to shift the blame. Then I left.
Get back on the horse
My next stop was Viñales. I had successfully avoided any more dance classes in Cuba for the last week. I was in a busy bar & sat on my own stool in the corner. Then a guy who had a table to himself asked if I wanted to share it with him. I knew it would create space for other diners & happily accepted. He was Australian & cycling around Cuba, on his bike during the day & enjoying showing off his salsa skills at night. I realised that he might be worried that I was alone to sharpen my (non-existent) cougar claws. Most sentences started with “My girlfriend…”. It was fine, he was safe!
I told him about my experiences with dancing so far & he said he would take me to the salsa club opposite. He was good to his word. We went. He was also an expert at salsa & I appreciated him taking the lead. After half an hour he clearly wanted to show off by finding a more competent partner. “Now I’m going to leave you to the Cuban men!” were his parting words. I thanked him.
I danced with some willing partners/teachers until one of them started licking my ear & I decided it was time to leave. But I was back on the horse…so to speak!”
Keen to see more? Favourite Hikes – Sunrise in Viñales, Cuba
Dance to the beat of your own drum
I had returned to Havana for my last night in Cuba before I reluctantly headed home. One of the girls in my casa invited me out for a few drinks with her Cuban boyfriend. After a few bars, we headed into Havana Vieja & a salsa club. I discovered that he had recruited one of his friends to keep me occupied for the evening.
It’s common in Cuba to partner up with someone who can dance with you in a club. Often tourists will pay their teacher to accompany them. It’s kind of escorting but even more acceptable in my opinion. They know you & are committed to dancing with you for the evening. You know you are in safe hands & get loads of practice. Everyone’s a winner!
My man wasn’t being paid but he was sweet, so I was happy. I was clear about the fact that I wasn’t very good. I felt it was important to manage his expectations. He was also very loyal & constantly asking if I wanted to dance. I did & we did. During one session, where I apologised one too many times, he called a halt to it all. He looked me in the eye & told me to stop worrying about the steps. Leave it to him & just enjoy it. I felt a huge sense of relief all of a sudden.
This, & the copious amount of rum I’d had all conspired to relax me. I went with it. My hips seemed strangely to have a life of their own & I had a ball. It proved a point. Maybe I was just trying too hard?”
What Havana salsa lessons taught me about life
Over the course of my attempts to learn, I had lost the huge sense of enjoyment that had fuelled my efforts in the early days. Who cares what anyone else thinks? I danced salsa my way & surely doing anything with a huge smile on your face is better than scowling your way through? And as a teacher, you don’t always want people to get it right. The fun is in getting it wrong & learning, even if getting it wrong is not about the steps, but more about the attitude.
We are not all skilled at everything & we need to embrace that. Learning anything is an adventure which will have bumps along the way. The joy comes from overcoming them, not stopping because of them. And worst of all would be never to try for fear of failure. Imagine what fun you could be missing out on!
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I love the idea of taking salsa lessons in Havana. I would be fine to jump right in. But hubby would need those few drinks first! He is convinced his hips will never move the way they need to. I think I might want to be in a true beginners course. Watching experienced people might intimidate me. But in the end, this sounded like a fun experience even with some bumps on the road.
Thank you, Linda & I think you would love it…just need to leave your inhibitions at the door! Sue x
What a lovely blog! I enjoyed reading about your Salsa lessons and Spanish in Cuba. Yes, the Spanish have a way with their hips – they sure can rotate and do things which if we try, will end up in a sprain or back ache! I bet your salsa is quite good as you could dance with so many partners and Spanish definitely more than ‘no, muchas gracias’!:-)
Thank you, Jan & I appreciate your words of encouragement re the dancing. I can say that my Spanish has definitely improved more than my salsa but both are a work in progress – small steps! Sue x
I’ve always wanted to learn salsa. It looks so fun and sensual, and for many people, it’s more than a dance — it’s a lifestyle. The problem is I have no rhythm and can’t follow choreography, so wish me luck ?. Anyway, I’m happy for you for being able to pick yourself up and enjoy your life after losing your soulmate. ?
Thank you for your kind words & you should definitely go for it & take some lessons – believe me that if I can do it, I’m sure you can too…or at least enjoy trying 🙂 Sue x
I would love to try to learn salsa, and it sounds like Cuba is a great place to do it!
It’s the perfect place, Krista! Hope you get to experience it one day. Sue x
What a fabulous story Sue. I was hooked all the way through. I wish I’d taken the plunge myself although I was travelling with my husband (who I guarantee would have been even more wooden than you) and I badly needed a hip replacement when we were there so could hardly walk let alone dance. So it was extra special to have this experience vicariously. Good for you for sticking with it!
Thank you, Alison, & sounds like it wasn’t the best timing for you to have a spin. Glad I got to take you on the journey with me. 😉 Sue x
That was a beautiful story! I tried learning to dance tango in Argentina. I also saw the passion between partners and was very uncomfortable trying to learn with a class of all women. Awkward! Beautiful growth and discovery you’ve had!!!
Thank you, Heather, & I can totally understand that the circumstances you were learning the tango in may not have been perfect! Sue x
This was the one thing I wish I did when visiting Havana. I’d love to learn dancing Salsa (definitely a stick of wood too haha) and it was great to read about your experiences! 😀
Thank you, Sara, & a shame you didn’t get to experience it too…next time 😉 Sue x
I certainly wouldn’t even attempt to learn to salsa after walking my shoes and feet off! I am not even sure if I would be able to move around rhythmically at all. it does look and sound like fun, apart from the licking of the ear part, that is!
Thank you, Alma – you sum it up perfectly! Sue x
Having salsa lessons in Havana sounds like a great idea. I have not been to Cuba yet, so it’s not easy for me to make any comparison. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you, Anita, & I hope you get to experience it one day…Cuba at least, but the salsa was certainly a fun addition to my trip. Sue x
Gorgeous photos of a stunning place – and where better to learn how to dance salsa! It rather puts my salsa dance holidays to Gran Canaria into the shade – I definitely would love to have learned in Cuba!
Thank you Coralie & I think learning anywhere is fun, but Cuba was certainly extra special & came at exactly the right time for me. Sue x
Such a great story. Truly enjoying exploring your page!
Thank you Jen & welcome to the blog! Glad you’re enjoying my stories. Sue x